Molten wax is poured into the mold and rotated until an even coating of about 1/8 inch covers the inner surface of the mold. After the wax is cool, the mold is opened and the wax positive is removed. This mold may be reused to make multiple copies. Each wax positive is then worked to remove parting lines and defects. Wax pieces that were molded separately can be heated and attached. Small cylinders of wax called spues are attached to the wax positive to provide paths for molten bronze to enter the mold and to allow air to escape. A wax cup is attached to these spues which is where the molten bronze will be poured. See the figure to the left where the cup is shown at the bottom.

A sprued wax copy is dipped into a slurry of silica, then into a stucco like mixture. This shell is then allowed to dry, and the process is repeated several times. The shell is then placed cup-down and torched at high temperatures or placed in a kiln for several hours for large pieces. The heat hardens the ceramic, and the wax melts and runs out. This is now a hollow negative.

The shell is then reheated to remove all moisture, then placed cup side up into a sand pit. Bronze metal is melted in a graphite crucible in a gas furnace, then lifted out with tongs. The crucible is then lifted with a pouring shank and the liquid bronze is poured into the shell . The filled shells are allowed to cool. The shell is then hammered and sand-blasted away to reveal the bronze casting. The sprues are also cut off.

The casting is then worked with tools to remove parting lines. All defects such as air bubbles or pits are filed down and then polished or sand blasted. Patina is applied by hand or spray and usually requires several coats and can be applied with a torch as shown in the picture. After cooling the finished piece is then given a wax coating to preserve the finish. A marble or wood base is added to figurines.